You Have to See It

Several years ago a friend was telling me about his visit to France.  He lamented how his wife had wanted to see the Eiffel Tower but he didn't have any desire to do so.  He gave in to his wife's wishes.  Much to his surprise he really enjoyed himself.  Until I saw it in person I felt like I didn't really want to see it either.  I have changed my mind.  I loved the Eiffel Tower and I can't wait to see it again.

E. and I continued our March 2010 Parisian tour by walking from the Arc de Triomphe to the Eiffel Tower.  In much of the same fashion as monuments in Washington, D.C., the distance was much greater than it looks.  In Washington, D.C., it seems like it would be an easy jaunt from the Capitol building to the Jefferson memorial.  Halfway there you are panting, wondering how much further, weighing your desire to see a statue of Thomas Jefferson to that of sitting down in a comfy chair.  E. and I were not deterred by the distance between the two Parisian tourist attractions.  Unlike D.C., it is not a straight shot from the Arc to the Tower.  We spent a considerable amount of time weaving our way through little avenues, comparing street signs to our map, and looking over buildings to see if we could view the Eiffel Tower coming closer. 

After wondering how much further we had to go, we stepped out of a grouping of buildings and E. pointed ahead.  There it was!  Just over a street, through a park, past some more buildings, through some more streets, across a bridge... really, we were almost there. 

I have always thought that the Eiffel Tower appeared delicate.  In pictures it seems as if there is a lot of space between the iron that creates the structure.  There is nothing delicate about it when you are looking at it in real life.  It is absolutely enormous, massive, and stable.  There is a lot of space between the iron bars, but they are so huge that it doesn't seem delicate any longer.

E. and I walked around the base of the Eiffel Tower for some time.  It was very windy and cold that day.  The monument seemed to conduct the wind with extremely strong gusts especially underneath the legs.  There were several times I wondered if I was going to be picked up by the wind and tossed around like a leaf. Since we had just been to the top of the Arc de Triomphe we didn't go up to the observation decks.  Wanting to wait until dark to see the Tower lit up, we escaped the cold by going to a nearby restaurant.  There I ate the first hamburger I had had since moving to Strasbourg.  I realize it wasn't a very French choice.  But after eating French food for nearly five months I enjoyed the burger immensely. 

I only have one regret about visiting the Eiffel Tower.  I wish I had purchased one of those cheesy, tiny, model monuments.  The kind that people put on their bookshelves for awhile, then pack into a box stored in the basement, and years later their relatives sell it at a yard sale.  Yeah, I wish I had bought one of those.  Hopefully I will have another rendezvous with la Tour Eiffel. I will make sure to get one then.   

The Arc de Triomphe

The Arc de Triomphe is amazing.  Pictures don't do it justice.  It is incredibly grand, imposing, and definitely regal.  In the picture above, the little ant-like creatures, those are people.  This monument is huge!

One of the most interesting things about it is that traffic runs right beside it.  I am so used to American monuments where vehicles aren't allowed in their vicinity.  But there is a steady stream of quickly moving traffic around the Arc de Triomphe.  The monument can be accessed by entering a tunnel and walking under the road.  That is a much better solution than having tourists try to dodge cars. 

After spending time admiring the relief sculptures on the outside of the Arc, E. and I decided to go to the top.  We climbed the 280 steps to reach the observation deck.  Have I mentioned that I was six months pregnant in March of 2010?  I was pretty amazed that I could make it to the top considering the size of my belly at the time. 

The climb was worth the effort.  The view stretches for miles.  We spent as long as we possibly could on the observation deck.  The wind was extremely strong.  When our cheeks were numb and our eyes were watering from the cold we decided to go back inside.  We spent a little bit of time warming up before heading outside again.  Next stop was the Eiffel Tower.

This is the Champes-Elysee.  E. pointed out that there are four lanes in each direction.  I imagine that traffic was light because it was a Sunday afternoon.

My reflection being blown in the wind.

Just a note for anyone who might be considering visiting the Arc de Triomphe the restrooms there aren't too bad.  Coming from a woman who was pregnant during her visit to Paris, you should take me as an authority.  I am familiar with, maybe too familiar with, Parisian public restrooms.

A First Glimpse of Paris

After touring around Alsace for a couple of days in March of 2010, my friend, E., and I made our way to Paris.  It is an American myth that every place in Europe is just a hop, skip, and jump away from each other.  A little travel time is involved if you want to see different places.  Strasbourg is about a six hour drive from Paris.  Thankfully it only takes two and a half hours on the TGV, the high speed train.  E. and I opted for going quickly. 

The train ride was interesting.  It was the first time that I had been on the TGV.  It took us a few short minutes to figure out which cabin we were supposed to be in as well as the seating arrangement.  Just a note to anyone who would like to ride the TGV: be there on time and get on the train promptly.  The trains pull up, wait for about ten minutes for people to get on, then without much fanfare they pull away.  There is no dillydallying. 

We arrived in Paris on a Sunday and had almost all day to sightsee.  Our hotel was in the opera district which was fairly convenient to the major tourist attractions.  I don't mind saying that I was touristy in Paris because I certainly was.  I wasn't going to miss out on seeing the Eiffel Tower just so I could say that I was too cool to go see it. 

After dropping our luggage off at our hotel, we walked a few blocks and we were on the famed Avenue des Champs-Elysee.  There were no leaves on the trees yet and no flowers blooming but it was still gorgeous.  Shoppers were lining the streets but it was not so crowded as to be uncomfortable.  We didn't do anything but window shop that day.  We were making a bee line straight for the Arc de Triomphe.



I couldn't help but take a picture of the golden arches with the Arc de Triomphe behind them.



St. Patrick's Day

France does not really do St. Patrick's Day.  I mean, really, why should they?  There are no parades of people in tartan, wearing shamrock earrings, or "Kiss Me, I'm Irish" t-shirts.  The canals aren't dyed a bright florescent lime color.  No one will be drinking copious amounts of food-dye laden beer in Strasbourg today.  Kids in school will not come home with pinch marks because they wore blue instead of green.  It will be a normal day in France today.

In fact, in over a year I haven't seen any signs whatsoever of homage to Irish heritage.  So I was extremely surprised at what I saw in a store window yesterday.  I took a different street than I normally do, passing a costume shop on my way to Galeries Lafayette.  There in the window were two mannequins dressed up to resemble a leprechaun and an Irish lassie (although she probably looks more Scottish than Irish).  For all those people who aren't familiar with the holiday there was a balloon to clarify why they were dressed this way.  So there is at least one person in Strasbourg who knows about St. Patrick's Day.  They are probably an American ex-pat like me. 

Anyways, happy St. Patrick's Day to all those who do celebrate it.  Enjoy your green festivities!

Fundamentally the Same

I had intended to write a series of blog posts centered around my friend, E's, visit to France.  I still intend on doing that but I cannot write about that today.  It seems too indulgent to reminisce about good times when there is an overwhelming amount of sorrow happening in the world right at this moment. 

I cannot stop thinking about what has occurred in Japan this weekend and the suffering that is still happening today.  I don't personally know anyone who is there, but I still feel like it is happening to someone close to me. 

This is an instance where I can clearly see how much my viewpoint has changed in the past year and a half.  If I hadn't moved away from the small area that I had lived in for thirty-four years I would have seen the disaster in Japan and thought, "I am so sorry for them."  I still feel sad, but now I have more of a feeling of "I am so sorry for us." 

I don't want to downplay the suffering and say that I understand what is going on because I have no reference for that.  But since moving to Europe, I feel a part of the larger world.  My distinctions between "us" and "them" have been smudged if not almost completely erased.  I have come to realize that there are no differences important enough to notice between anyone, no matter where in the world they live.  We are all fundamentally the same.  I used to think that I knew that, now I truly understand it.

I am sending out my thoughts and prayers to Japan as well as to all those touched by this tragedy.  The whole world is worse off because of this event.  My heart grieves for so much loss.

A Snowy Visit to the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg

The beginning of E.'s March 2010 visit started in Strasbourg.  She and I spent several days visiting the local sites like the cathedral and la Petite France.  We enjoyed tasty food from some of my favorite restaurants as well as the farmer's market.

The weather the first few days of her visit were blustery but sunny.  On Saturday morning, we woke up to an unexpected March snow.  We spent a chilly morning at the farmer's market.  Then, even though it had snowed, we continued with our plans of driving along the wine road and visiting the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg. 

As we drove higher into the Vosges Mountains, the snow became deeper.  It added an interesting element to our trip.  I doubt that I would have volunteered to visit an unheated castle during a snowfall if we E. hadn't been visiting.  In retrospect I am glad that it turned out that way.  The snow emphasized many of the castle's nooks and crannies.  It also made me extremely appreciative that I don't live in a castle during winter.  I am a complete softie compared to what those people must have been like. 

The view from the castle is spectacular.  You can see for miles.  It is strange to think that there were people who lived in the castle and probably never visited some of the little villages that surround the base of the hill.  It would have taken a few hours to travel to the villages on horse and even longer on foot.  So from Haut-Koenigsbourg these people would have been able to see so much further than they were realistically able to go.  Did any of them sit at the windows, looking longingly towards a vista that they wanted to explore?  Were these far away places alluring or frightening?  I guess it would have depended on the individual.

View of the castle from the road

Up the walkway to the entrance

First built in the 12th century, the castle provided shelter and defense for people during uncertain times.

The castle was besieged during the Thirty Years War.  It was pillaged and abandoned in 1633.  It sat in ruins for over 200 years.

When Alsace was a part of Germany, Kaiser Wilhelm II funded a restoration of the castle.  The work lasted from 1900 until 1908.

The inside is furnished. 

There are beautiful murals painted on the inside walls.

There is electricity flowing through the castle now that puts a damper on the historical accuracy.  But to be practical, the tourists have to be able to see.  Check out the huge antlers displayed on the middle chandelier.

My husband looking out towards the view.

It is said that on a clear day the Alps are visible from here.

Historical and tour information on the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg can be found at the following website:

http://www.haut-koenigsbourg.fr/en

A Friendship that Travels

The most difficult thing about moving is not being able to easily get together with people that I was used to seeing all the time.  You go from knowing that person is just a across the hall at work or just a short drive away to having to make a monumental effort in order to visit face to face with them.

My great friend, E., made the tremendous effort last year in March to come visit me in Europe.  I know that it had to be hard for her to leave her husband and young daughters for so many days.  Not to mention the expense of traveling and the inconvenience of lugging big bags through airports, train stations, shuttles, and across bumpy, cobblestoned roads.  But, thankfully, the lure of friendship, new sights, and adventure convinced her to make the trip. 

I can't believe it has been a year since E.'s visit.  The old adage of "where did time go?" is keenly true.  I wish that I had spent more time writing down the details of her visit to Strasbourg and our visit to Paris.  I wrote down the basics of what we did in my diary, but unfortunately didn't make note of my passing thoughts.  At the time I probably figured that I would always remember how it felt to see the Eiffel Tower for the first time as E. pointed it out in the Paris skyline.  I do remember it, but it isn't as sharp as it was then.

At the time I might have considered our adventure in Europe together to be the epitome of our friendship.  It may be the most adventurous thing that we will do together (although I am still holding out for a trip with her to New York City).  But a year later I realize that her visit here was just another great time on a long, long list of wonderful moments spent together.  Was looking at the Mona Lisa together better than playing with E.'s daughters at the Pittsburgh Children's Museum?  Although different, both events hold an equally special place in my heart. 

Thank goodness for friendships, especially long held ones.  They make life so much more interesting, comforting, and worthwhile.  It doesn't make a difference to me whether the meetings are conducted in exotic, foreign lands or on familiar ground.  It is the time spent together that counts. 

For the next few days I am planning to highlight some of the events of E.'s visit to France.  Stop back to see us tackle a castle in Alsace and museums in Paris. 

March 2010

Soaking in the Sun

Today is one of those days where all I want to do is to sit in a sunbeam and soak up the warmth.  The air is still cool outside, but the light coming through the window is toasty.  

This picture was taken in March 2010 at Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg, Orschwiller, Alsace, France.

A Borderland Struggle

The province of Alsace is nestled between the Vosges mountain range and the Rhine River.  The land is flat enough for farmland but also has mountain resources such as timber and stone.  Because of this placement and fertility, Alsace has been ruled by several different governments through the centuries.  Celts and Romans have lived here but most recently this area has repeatedly passed between the French and Germans.  The French felt that the natural border between the countries should be the Rhine River.  The Germans thought that stopping at the Vosges Mountains made more sense. 
In recent history, the people in Alsace endured governmental changes several times.  The Germans owned Alsace from 1871 through 1918 and then again during World War II from 1940 through 1944.  The Alsatians didn't have a choice in the matter.  They were ruled by whichever government was stronger at the time.  Tough luck that you currently speak French, now you have to learn German... or the other way around.  Strasbourg had been a German city for fifty years when all of a sudden it was owned by France again.  How many people had been born as Germans but then had to identify themselves as French?  These changes had to be shocks to the system.

The takeovers didn't happen as a friendly sharing of property lines.  It wasn't like one country said, "Here, use the Rhine River valley for a few years then when you are done with it drop back off at my place."  This land was torn apart by war, then afterwards the people were forced to change their language, their loyalties, and their identity.  These wars weren't between countries an ocean apart.  These wars were fought by soldiers who might have lived five miles from one another.  They might have traded goods at the same markets, passed each other in their fields, or eaten at the same pubs together.  Some of these soldiers might have been neighbors, friends, cousins, or even brothers.  It was highly likely that a family could have members on both sides of the Rhine and therefore on both sides of the conflict. 

In the Place de la Republique there is a statue of a woman holding two dying men.  This statue symbolizes a mother who has lost her two sons.  One son was fighting on the side of the French while the other son was a German soldier  For this mother it didn't matter which side won because ultimately she lost everything anyway.

In the spring, summer, or autumn when the Place de la Republique is colorful with flowers and noisy with sounds of laughing children it is easy to overlook this statue.  But when the winter has stripped all the distractions away, the mourning mother becomes the focal point.  This statue is made of stone, but it represents flesh and blood.  There were real people who fought, struggled, and possibly gave their lives.  They walked this ground.  They lived their daily lives right here, where I am, just at a different time.

I am taking a moment to pause and think about the ordinary Alsatian men and women whose lives were disrupted again and again just because they lived on a piece of land that governments struggled over.  Their lives were changed not for some grand cause but rather for imaginary borders.  I am sure that the regular people in this area didn't care that much about the black lines on a map that define countries.  They just wanted to live their lives in peace.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alsace