"To journey without being changed is to be a nomad.

To change without journeying is to be a chameleon.

To journey and to be transformed by the journey is to be a pilgrim." -Mark Nepo

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

How to Assemble a Christmas Tree

Strasbourg Christmas tree during the 2010 holiday season
Traditionally, Strasbourg has an enormous tree set up in Place Kleber for Christmas.  When I say enormous, I mean the tree is absolutely, positively humongous.  Normally they choose trees that are as tall as some of the surrounding buildings.  I have been wondering how they get such large trees transported into the city center.  The trees are longer than a tractor trailer.

A couple of Saturdays ago, part of the answers to my questions were revealed.  The tree is cut into pieces, with the branches removed.  Then it is reassembled in Place Kleber by some highly skilled workmen using a cherry-picker, ropes, and extraordinary climbing skills.  I was very excited to see the workers putting this year's tree together.  I hope next year I can see it being driven into the city.

The tree for 2011

The workmen are deciding which branch goes on next.

Branches waiting to be put back on the tree

The branches are supported by sections that were left on the tree.

Ropes tie the branches in place.

A fascinated onlooker

Place Kleber was littered with branches.


A man climbing the tree to help reassemble it

Monday, November 28, 2011

Strasbourg is Getting Ready for Christmas


Strasbourg is the "Capitol of Christmas".  I am not sure how the city was given this distinction.  I don't know if they won some contest or were the first ones to complete a survey or they just proclaimed that they were indeed the seat of Noel.  However it was decided, it is now just a fact in France.

Strasbourg goes all out for the holiday.  The entire city is decorated.  They set up outdoor markets in several locations throughout town.  People come from faraway places to experience the Alsatian Christmas.

The city dedicates the entire month of November to get ready for December.  They have been decorating, constructing, and loading the shops with goodies.  It makes me excited to see the preparations.  I have always loved the Christmas season.  Being in Strasbourg takes that love to new heights.

Here are some photos of the decorating process.

Stringing lights in front of the cathedral
A man hanging a wreath in La Petite France.
A string of lights waiting to be hung.

Giant cookie decorations waiting to be installed
This man is arranging fake storks, the official bird of Alsace, on his Christmas market stall.
Decorating the rue des Grandes Arcades
A Christmas tree is shimmed into a hole in a cobblestone plaza.  
A truck full of artificial trees
A man is twining lights around trees in Place Broglie. 
This string of lights is being held up by a carving created well before the invention of electricity.
Christmas market buildings waiting for opening day
Getting the open air skating rink ready
Lights are being put on the tree in Place Kleber

Friday, November 25, 2011

Thank Goodness for Thanksgiving

Our table seating was a little hodge podge but it worked.
This was our third Thanksgiving spent in France.  The past two holidays have been extremely un-festive.  In 2009, my husband and I had just moved to Strasbourg.  We had no furniture at the time.  Well, we had a bed, a chair and an ottoman.  So that was almost no furniture.  We didn't know the French word for turkey and couldn't find anything obviously resembling turkey in the grocery store.  So my husband made roasted chicken with potatoes.  Since we didn't have a table at the time, I was the lucky one who got to eat while sitting in our only chair.  My husband sat on the ottoman.  It was either that or sit on the floor.

Last year, it was only me and my six month old daughter who were together to celebrate.  My husband was on a business trip.  Since the kiddo wasn't eating solid foods at the time, I made dinner for myself.  I had a frozen pizza.  It seems sad to write that now but it seemed comical at the time.  My husband and I made ourselves a more traditional Thanksgiving dinner during the weekend to make up for it.  

The American ex-patriot group in Strasbourg hosts a Thanksgiving dinner every year.  It is held on a weekend so more people can attend.  Thanksgiving isn't even a blip on the screen in France.  Everything continues like normal.  People go to work and to school that day.  The Americans in Alsace dinner is held at a restaurant, which is nice, but it doesn't feel homey.  An important part of Thanksgiving is the cleaning of the house, cooking all day long, the craziness of hosting so many guests, cleaning up afterwards, and most importantly, leftovers.  None of that happens when you go to a restaurant.

So this year my husband and I decided to host our own Thanksgiving dinner at our apartment. We had had family over at our house in Pennsylvania probably six years ago.  But my parents, grandmother, and father-in-law had made most of the food.  We roasted the bird but the side dishes were brought by everyone else.  This year, for the first time ever, we took complete ownership of a holiday.

The first hurdle we had to overcome was how to get a whole turkey.  The French sell thin slices of turkey breast or turkey legs in the grocery stores but we have never seen a whole bird.  We have heard rumors that they sell frozen ones in Germany but we didn't cross the border to confirm this.  Thankfully, one of my husband's friends has a mother-in-law who knows a French farmer who raises turkeys.  After some phone conversations and planning, my husband was able to drive to the farm and pick up a turkey just for us.

I felt guilty about having this animal lose its life just because we wanted to have a traditional Thanksgiving dinner.  But putting that aside, it was a really interesting experience to cook and eat a farm raised turkey. To quote my husband, "This bird is all leg."  The meat ratio of leg to breast was definitely different from what we were used to.  This turkey had lived a life of running around instead of being penned up so it had built up its leg muscles.  We nicknamed it Mr. Not Butterball.  That was a good thing though.  Along with its small amount of breast meat, we didn't have to worry about added hormones or antibiotics.  It was a good trade off in my opinion.

The turkey took up a lot of space in our small, European fridge.
My husband did all the necessary work on the bird.  It came plucked with its insides cleaned out but its head was still intact.  I was squeamish about that but my husband took care of it.  He also put it in brine overnight and baked it to perfection.  


Because I couldn't imagine myself using a fresh pumpkin to make pie, I asked my mother to send us pumpkin in a can.  I have never seen that sold in a Strasbourg store.  The canned pumpkin arrived in good time, only a little dented, which didn't hurt anything.  My husband and I teamed up in making pie crust from scratch.  A friend of mine had sent her "no fail" pie crust recipe.  It was the flakiest pie crust I had ever eaten thanks to the addition of lard.  Lard was definitely something that I had never bought in France (or ever) before.  Once again, my husband turned to his holiday saving friend to find out the French word for lard and where it might be located in the grocery store.  He was able to easily locate the saindoux in the area where sausages are sold.  We used our newly purchased robot, or food processor, to mix things up.  The pies turned out wonderfully!


After a day of cooking, cleaning (and entertaining our toddler while we cooked and cleaned), the apartment looked great and smelled even better.  Our guests arrived.  We hosted two families and one single guy.  There was a combination of Americans and French natives as well as American and French born children.  I never would have imagined hosting a Thanksgiving dinner where two languages were spoken around the same table.  We feasted on Mr. Not Butterball, (who was moist and delicious), butternut squash soup, mashed potatoes, stuffing, gravy, an upgraded version of green bean casserole brought by one of our guests, baguettes, pumpkin pie, and brownies brought by the friend who had hooked us up with turkey and lard.  By the end of the meal, I was so full I could hardly move.

As our guests were leaving, one of them said that it felt like a true Thanksgiving.  That was the best compliment they could have given me.  They were right.  It had been a perfect celebration.  Thank goodness for Thanksgiving!

Our pumpkin pies and cranberry  juice.  I checked several grocery stores and was not able to find fresh, frozen, or canned cranberries.  Because it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without cranberries, we had to go with juice.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Fall Finale

I wanted to share these images of autumn in Strasbourg.  They were taken during October and November of 2011 throughout various places in the city.  Enjoy the last days of fall!

A riot of rose hips held back by a fence

The last vegetables from a garden in the Robertsau area.  

The gorgeous trees in the Place de la Republique  

Several people enjoying fall in the Place de la Republique

A morning bike ride through the fog

Strasbourg changes their flower arrangements seasonally.  These mums hang from a bridge near the Gallia tram stop.

A half timbered house in the Place St. Etienne

Looking towards the cathedral from the Petite France area in Strasbourg

The ginkgo trees in Place de la Republique make a beautiful yellow carpet.

A vine draped fence along the Allee de la Robertsau

Cobblestones covered by fallen leaves

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Monday, November 21, 2011

La Photo du Jour: Flock of Birds


Lately the skies over Strasbourg have been filled with flocks of birds.  Hundreds of them perch in trees together, cackling and chirping to one another.  Then all of a sudden they will take flight as one large group, headed to warmer places.

Friday, November 18, 2011

La Photo du Jour: Marilyn and the Good Book

A photo of Marilyn Monroe and a stack of Bibles being sold at an outdoor brocante in Strasbourg.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Friday, November 11, 2011

Veteran's Day


Happy Veteran's Day.  Not only is it Veteran's Day in America but it is the same holiday in Europe as well.  Students have the day off.  A lot of businesses, shops, and restaurants are closed today.  Things are pretty quiet in Strasbourg because of the holiday.

My daughter and I attended a military service this morning in the Place de la Republique.  We didn't stay for the entire ceremony but I appreciated what I saw.  It reminded me to be thankful that I live a life of independence and freedom.  I am also very blessed with a life full of peace.

It feels a bit odd to be writing about Veteran's Day as a citizen of the United States living in a foreign country.  I know exactly what I would say if I had only an American viewpoint.  I would write about how thankful I am for the men and women keeping me safe and protected.  But I don't live in my sheltered American bubble anymore.  Today I watched a ceremony dedicated to soldiers who may or may not keep my country of origin safe.  Currently France and America are friends but peace between countries is always tenuous.  But that doesn't mean that these individual soldiers are any less brave, courageous, or committed to protecting what they value as American veterans are.  The only difference between them is the country they are loyal to.

Today I am thankful for people who are willing to dedicate their lives to causes that they truly believe in.  Being a member of any military, from any country, is a great act of loyalty and self-sacrifice.  On a personal note, I am thankful for the opportunity to see a different side of a concept that I would never have examined if I had only ever lived in the United States.

Flowers to adorn the statue of the fallen soldiers

Veterans greeting each other


This little girl was trying her best to see the proceedings.