In Brussels: The Grand Place

The Grand Place, which is a huge plaza surrounded by magnificent buildings, is at the heart of Brussels.  The architecture is absolutely amazing.  Many of the buildings have gold colored details that sparkle in the sun.  It is truthfully quite grand, hence the name of the plaza.

This plaza was recently featured in Time magazines's One Hundred Most Important Places in the World, published in 2011.  The article stated that most European plazas have a church as their focal point.  The Grand Place in Brussels does not.  Instead of religion, it exalts commerce.  The craftsman guilds were the ones to erect the buildings, each one trying to show their importance by creating something more magnificent than the others.  They certainly gave each other a run for the money.

La Photo du Jour: Birds on a Belgium Statue

Birds sitting on the shoulder of a statue in Brussels, Belgium

La Photo du Jour: Flags over Brussels

Decorative flags wave over a street in Brussels, Belgium

In Brussels: Amazing Chocolate

Chocolate truffles from Mary

Our hotel in Brussels was very close to the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert which is one of the oldest covered shopping arcades in Europe.  According to wikipedia, construction began in 1846 and ended in 1847.  The glass dome hovered over a wide walkway lined with upscale shops selling jewelry, chocolate, wine, hats, watches, and other luxury items.

Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert

We only went into one store in the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert.  That was perfectly fine with me because this one store was absolutely amazing.  We went into a shop called Mary which sells handmade chocolates and other sweet confections.  My aunt had suggested that we stop there saying that the store had a great reputation.  Apparently the Belgium royal family endorses this particular chocolatier.  

I have to admit I was a bit intimidated at first glance.  Everything in the store was immaculately arranged into beautiful displays of the most gorgeous looking candies I have ever seen.  With a bit of coaxing from my husband, I approached the counter where I was able to choose which pralines, truffles, and other goodies I wanted put into my box.  Of course I wanted one of everything but economics made me be more prudent.  I chose sixteen chocolates.  

Upon my first bite, I have to declare that these are the best chocolate covered candies that I have had so far in my life.  I chose one that had a creamy cannelle (cinnamon) filling that was covered in dark chocolate.  Another had a dark chocolate and raspberry center with a white chocolate coating.  The white covering had metallic, maroon polka dots decorating it.  There were chocolate covered candied ginger and orange peel pieces plus gooey caramels.  Each one has been fabulous in its own unique way.

As I am writing this post I still have a few of these candies left in the box.  I have shared with my husband and my daughter.  But as the number dwindles, I admit that I have been contemplating hiding the box so I can eat the rest all by myself.  I probably won't do that but the thought is tempting.  I might have to go to Brussels again with the main goal of procuring some Mary's chocolates.  

The white chocolate ones in the center of the photo are the fabulous raspberry ones.

The front window of Mary

In Brussels: A la Mort Subite

Our first night in Brussels, we met my aunt at a drinking establishment called A la Mort Subite.  It is known for having a wide selection of great Belgium beers.  The term a la mort subite means "at the sudden death".  It refers to the loser of a game of dice played at the last minute while the bar was closing.    We didn't see anyone playing dice while we were there.  We did see a lot of beer being enjoyed though.

The bar was crowded but in a cozy way.  Everyone was sitting and talking to their companions.  There is no smoking inside public places in Belgium so there wasn't the haze that can occur in some American  bars (depending on the city that you are in, of course).  Mirrors, advertisements, vintage photographs, and interesting light fixtures made up the decor.  The tables were wooden and arranged in long rows.

We made friends with two men sitting at the same long table as us.  One man was from Paris and spoke only French.  I am not sure where the other man was from but he has traveled all over the world.  He spoke English.  We talked to them for some time about their thoughts on Brussels, Paris, and the world.

My aunt arrived and we enjoyed catching up with her.  After a bit, we headed out for dinner.  There is a street close by A la Mort Subite that is jammed packed with restaurants.  There is literally one after another, after another.  Each establishment had a maitre d' standing outside, drumming up business.  We were offered drinks, a seat for the baby, and told about their specials.  My daughter was called a princess several times.  Apparently the competition for restaurant patrons is tough in that neighborhood.

We decided to go to Chez Leon which is well known for its seafood.  Of course, we had to have mussels in Brussels.  My husband and I enjoyed plump mussels and crisp fries while my aunt had waterzooi de poulet.  Waterzooi is a traditional Belgium dish with chicken (or possibly fish) and vegetables in a creamy sauce.  My daughter enjoyed sharing the waterzooi and some fries.  After our tasty dinner, we went back to our hotel, ready to rest up for the next day's adventure in Brussels.

A Weekend Jaunt to Brussels

Driving through the rain to our hotel in Brussels, Belgium

We made a weekend trip to Brussels to visit my aunt who was in Belgium for work.  It was about a five hour drive from Strasbourg to Brussels.  

My husband and I usually do research before traveling to a new place.  This trip was spur of the moment and neither of us did much in the way of educating ourselves about Brussels.  My husband researched a couple of hotels.  We also watched two videos produced by Americans who enjoy traveling and giving tips on where to go.  One had a five minute talk about Brussels, the other focused on the beer of the area.  It was highly entertaining but a little short on history and other types of entertainment.  So we went into this trip not knowing much.

When we drove into Brussels, I was immediately surprised by two things.  First of all, the city is built on a hill.  I am so used to the flatness of Strasbourg that I forgot that there can be changes in elevation.  The historic area of Brussels was built on one huge hill.  We were either going up it or down it.  I guess we went sideways a couple of times too.  

I was also surprised by the modernity of the city.  Again, this was a comparison to Strasbourg.  Strasbourg has a historic section that is surrounded by a ring of newer architecture.  Brussels had extremely modern buildings right next to some of its oldest landmarks.  There were honest to goodness skyscrapers in Brussels as well.  Strasbourg doesn't have skyscrapers.   

Brussels is the capitol of the European Union.  The building on the left is their headquarters.

A Royal Treat

Les galettes des rois

The holiday of Epiphany is on January 6th.  I don't have much experience with this holiday but I have learned a couple of things since living in Strasbourg.  Epiphany marks the day that the three kings of Orient fame met the baby Jesus.  France marks the date with a special cake.

In Strasbourg, les galettes des rois can be found in bakeries through the entire month of January.  La galette des rois means cake of kings.  On the weekend of the sixth, our neighborhood bakery only offered these cakes as their choice of desserts.  Apparently someone would be out of luck if they would rather have something different.

A galette des rois is a round dessert made of flaky pastry.  They are technically called cake but their texture is not like a typical American cake.  They are more like a dense croissant.  They are flaky, not fluffy or moist.  The one we ate had a frangipane filling, which is a sweet paste made from almonds.  A modern-day trinket, made from plastic, is hidden in the cake.  The person who receives the trinket in their serving is considered the "king".  The lucky person gets to wear a paper crown that comes with the galette.

My husband was the big winner this year.  He found a tiny, red firetruck in his piece of cake.  I am hoping to be the lucky one next year.  Maybe I could trade my trinket for a night off from dish duty?

Les galettes des rois in a bakery window.  These particular ones offered Shrek themed prizes.  

Our galette came in a special bag.  

Our galette with its crown

There's the prize!

La Photo du Jour: Keep the Lights On

Strasbourg, France

I like it when Christmas lights are still on in January.  Their cheerful brightness makes the dreary, gray days of winter easier to handle.

A New Year, a Fresh Start

The winter moon shines over holiday decorations in Kaysersberg, France.  

I relish the beginning of a new year.  It is a fresh start, full of promises of good things to come.  I believe in washing away the old, just letting it go, and opening up the window to the loveliness of today.  May 2012 offer you opportunities for growth, happiness, love, prosperity, and most importantly much joy.